Apr 03, 2013  This difference made Warn the platform of choice for my project. Picking a size was the easy part. For my heavy 80 series Land Cruiser (and getting heavier), a 12K winch seemed like the perfect fit. So, off I was to find the ideal Warn M12000. I had been looking for a long time (several months) to find a used Warn M12000 local to me.

In this thread I'll be documenting the take down and rebuild of a Warn M12000. Before I begin, I'd like to explain my reasoning for rebuilding a used Warn M12000 vs. Simply buying a new Warn, or another much less expensive overseas built brand. The primary reason why I focused my efforts on a used winch was my desire to rebuild it to gain familiarity with what will become an important part of my vehicle.

It also looked like fun. If I am looking for a used winch, price could be much less of a factor (if I am a smart shopper). Plus there were a few upgrades I wanted to do as part of the rebuild, and that is more cost effective on a used winch vs. Buying new and replacing brand new parts. So now I know I want a used winch, but what brand and size? After doing a ton of research, I couldn't really find anything technical that would sway me one way or another to buy a particular brand.

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However, one major advantage to Warn is their U.S. Based customer service and availability of replacement parts. The only consistent knock to the overseas brands seem to be their customer support.

This difference made Warn the platform of choice for my project. Picking a size was the easy part.

For my heavy 80 series Land Cruiser (and getting heavier), a 12K winch seemed like the perfect fit. So, off I was to find the ideal Warn M12000. I had been looking for a long time (several months) to find a used Warn M12000 local to me. Most of the ones I found were slightly used and getting close to the asking price of a new winch, or relatively inexpensive and beat up really bad. One finally came up on Craigslist. Asking price was $450.

I confirmed that the winch spooled out and in under power. It also free spooled. I bought it the same day it went up for sale. ​ I called Warn customer service to identify the year of manufacture from the serial number and date code, and they told me the winch was made in 1993.about 20 years old. If you click on the text under the picture, you can get a larger view and will be able to see the surface wear and some corrosion.

As part of the rebuild, all parts, which are reused, will be cleaned and all external parts will be painted. I'll document the project in multiple posts and probably ask lots of questions along the way. Winch Take-Down - Gears and Housing Opening the control box, I found dirty solonoids that need cleaning, but the wires are in good shape. Opening up the housing for the planetary gears, things look okay, but need to dig in further to get an idea of condition Break down of planetary gears.

A lot of caked on dirty grease. A little rust is present but not on the actual gears Teeth in the housing look good I believe older model warn winches have these small ball bearings. I've cleaned these and noticed that some are in great shape, while others have some rust/pitting.

Probably will replace all of these with new. Replacement Parts Getting ready to order replacement parts for my Winch. Besides the stickers, what are the recommended replacement parts for a standard rebuild? There are some plastic bushings, snap rings, steel ball bearings and a few gaskets in my M12000. • All gaskets in the winch are a no brainer.they need replacing.

• I'd like to reuse the snap rings.I was gentle taking these off. These aren't bent, so I should be able to reuse, correct? • This would seem like a good time to replace the plastic bushings.

But is that necessary? • Some of the ball bearings are rusted. I figure I will replace all of these. Bearings from Warn are pricey, so I'll probably order from eBay. Does anyone know what specific type of ball bearings these are i.e. What hardness, stainless steel vs. Chrome, etc.?

New Grease Got my winch grease in the mail this past week. Warn recommends a moly fortified NLGI #1 grease. The #1 moly grease is spec'd for stability at high heat and heavy shock loads, and is used in low viscosity applications, such as enclosed gear drives operating at low speeds. The #1 also has better low temp pumpability. I couldn't find any NLGI#1 Moly Grease at my local parts stores (only NLGI#2), so I went ahead and ordered the specific brand that Warn recommends.AeroShell 33MS (replaces AeroShell 17). Kinda pricey, but not much more than the synthetic NLGI#2 grease when ordered online.

Excellent thread! - I have a mystery M12K I bought used & lived in Wisconsin its' life - so I need to contact Warn to identify as the serial number is corroded to illegibility & all the paint was crap that I sprayed to give a few years easy life in WA - wet, but salt free. I plant to tear it down, powdercoat the externals, and do a smooth down job & get the spool powdercoated in anticipation of synth rope as my steel cable is worn & clapped out. Would a teflon content powdercoat on the spool be beneficial? Can synth rope stay wet/damp all the time & it not being an issue? I ran cable this long as we have great grease to keep the core life extended. Got a quote from a local powder coat company.